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Post by c18rch on Mar 15, 2016 23:06:48 GMT
Some more pics. Forend is now almost finished. Not happy with shape, so will work on that a bit more, but it is fully inletted now. Have a scope for it now too. Vortex viper PST FFP 4-16x50. Haven't got the mounts sorted yet. Still need to think about that a bit more. Still no news on the reamer.
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.50 AB
Mar 15, 2016 23:14:17 GMT
Post by c18rch on Mar 15, 2016 23:14:17 GMT
The finished barrel length will be the same as the forend. The moderator will then extend about 4" beyond that and be reflexes back to where the rail stops.
I have a picatinny rail to mount to the barrel, but I am debating whether or not to drill the barrel or whether I can get weld nuts spot welded onto the barrel. That shouldn't affect the integrity of the barrel because the heat is only localised. Certainly no more that drilling anyway.
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.50 AB
Mar 16, 2016 11:40:14 GMT
Post by davet on Mar 16, 2016 11:40:14 GMT
Impressed by the woodworking as much as the metal.
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Post by oaken on Mar 16, 2016 13:34:45 GMT
Looks great. You keeping the barrel long to see what it'll do before chopping it down? Think you should call it the 'dozer.
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.50 AB
Mar 16, 2016 16:39:46 GMT
Post by sako75varminter on Mar 16, 2016 16:39:46 GMT
Looking good Rich!
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.50 AB
Mar 16, 2016 22:48:30 GMT
via mobile
Post by greenerjim on Mar 16, 2016 22:48:30 GMT
Looking sweet mate. You could silver solder the rail. Less intrusive than welding and not drilling in to the barrel like screws.Very strong aswell when done right. That been said I've not seen it on scope mounts on something with as much potential for recoil as yours!
Maybe very shallow screws/studs and then rail soldered on. Screws/studs purely there to arrest rearward motion.
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Post by c18rch on Mar 18, 2016 8:12:08 GMT
Yeah, that's another option. I still need it to be easily removable though, as you can't take the barrel off for whatever reason if there is anything substantial attached due to the way in which the no1 action is put together.
Not that I intend removing the barrel once it is on. Until it need re-barrelling at least.
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Post by greenerjim on Mar 18, 2016 18:26:46 GMT
It's easily removed but it's not summat you'll wanna do as a matter of course. Come rebarrel time a quick blast with a blowtorch will get it off.
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Post by c18rch on Jul 14, 2016 20:12:25 GMT
Well, the reamer is here 😄
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Post by c18rch on Jul 14, 2016 20:17:38 GMT
The one on the left is the .300 blackout for comparison.
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.50 AB
Jul 15, 2016 20:14:19 GMT
Post by arbshot on Jul 15, 2016 20:14:19 GMT
Stock looks good Rich, where did you get the blank? CWP?
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.50 AB
Jul 18, 2016 14:06:15 GMT
Post by c18rch on Jul 18, 2016 14:06:15 GMT
Yeah CWP. It would seem that they are currently the only manufacturer of laminate rifle blanks in the world at the moment. The supplier in the states that supplies boyds, and richards microfit etc has burnt down!
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Post by tomhornn on Sept 15, 2016 15:32:19 GMT
hows your .50cal project coming? you haven't posted in a while
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Post by c18rch on Sept 16, 2016 9:15:53 GMT
Hit a slight snag in that the pilot is too small. The barrel is on the large side of the tolerance and the pilot is on the small side. Both are within tolerance but cannot be used together. Unfortunately that means I also can't complain to PTG. So, I'm going to have to make up a new pilot for it. Not a big job, but something I hadn't thought about.
Otherwise, it has just been the day job and other things getting in the way of progress on it. My target now is early October.
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Post by c18rch on Sept 19, 2016 13:11:05 GMT
on the plus side, having now measured the wall thickness were the fwd rail screw has to go, it looks like I will be able to just drill and tap it, rather than mess about with weld nuts etc.
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